Brisbane

Brisbane was established, when Sydney and the colony of New South Wales (NSW) needed a better place to keep their most dangerous convicts under control. The tropical region around what is now Brisbane seemed a good place for a new penal settlement and in 1824 it was established at Redcliffe Point on Moreton Bay. That site was later abandoned in favor of the riverside location to the south, which is nowadays Brisbane's business district. In 1839 the penal settlement was abandoned altogether and the region was opened to free settlers in 1842. Brisbane grew into a prosperous city, as a result of the development of Queensland's huge agricultural and mineral resources. In 1859 the state of Queensland separated from the colony of NSW and Brisbane was declared its capital. Nowadays Brisbane is Queensland's most populous city.

Queensland's settlers occupied Aboriginal land and encountered fierce resistance of the indigenous population. At the time of white settlement, Queensland was the most densely populated area of Australia and supported more than 100,000 Aboriginal people divided into around 200 tribal groups. It is thought that Aboriginal people had been in Australia for at least 50,000 years before the arrival of Europeans.

For most of the 19th century the Aboriginals waged a guerilla war against the white settlers. That war took place along the frontiers of the white advance. By the end of the 19th century, the Aboriginal People of Queensland had been completely run off their lands and the white authorities had set up reserves for the survivors. They include the Yugara, Turrbal and Quandamooka peoples. Control of the reserves was handed over to the residents in the 1980's, apart from rights of access for prospecting, exploration or mining.

Brisbane had shed its convict background by the 1860's and developed into a wonderful provincial center. The construction of many fine public and commercial buildings that transformed Brisbane's central business district started in the 1880's. Despite of a nation-wide climate of nationalism, the people of Queensland voted an anti-conscription Labor government into power at the beginning of WWI. Labor stayed in power until 1957 and during the time they ruled Queensland, they introduced many social and industrial reforms, including compulsory voting and workers' compensation.

During WWII, large areas of Queensland were transformed into military camps and thousands of Americans were garrisoned throughout the state, as Australia and the U.S.A. fought against Japan throughout the Pacific. As a result of that and in particular because the north of the country realized how vulnerable it was to invasion, Australia shifted its allegiance from the U.K. to the U.S.A. In the post-war years Queensland changed from a rural to an industrial economy and Labor was replaced by a conservative Liberal-Country Party coalition.

Brisbane's recent history was heavily dominated by the right-wing Joh Bjelke-Peterson regime, which lasted from the early 1970's to the late 1980's, thanks in part to a loose interpretation of electoral boundaries. Queensland, and Brisbane in particular, suffered a government that was at odds with the rest of the country. In matters such as human rights, rainforest conservation, Aboriginal land rights and even the availability of condoms Bjelke-Peterson's policies went in the opposite direction from the rest of Australia. Economically, his politics were a huge success. The side-effect of staying in power so long, was corruption. It was rife and after the defeat of the National Party in 1989 many of the former politicians have appeared in court on charges relating to some sort of shady deal.

Brisbane's rapid economic growth, its favorable climate and the governments 1977 decision to abolish death duties, have all attracted a huge amount of migrants. During the last two decades of the 20th century, more than 500,000 Australians from other states moved to Queensland.

As a result, Brisbane has become Australia's third largest city. Since it has hosted many international events in the 1980's, including the 1982 Commonwealth Games and the Expo in 1988, Brisbane has developed into a lively, cosmopolitan city with several interesting districts. The city has long lost its country-town reputation and has an excellent street café scene, a great riverside park, a busy cultural calendar and decent nightlife.

Brisbane has also become a popular destination for tourists, thanks in part to its pleasant climate. Some of Queensland other major tourist destinations are not too far from the capital, so there are plenty of options for interesting daytrips.

Brisbane is located in the southeastern corner of Queensland. It is a riverside city and sits some 25 km (15 miles) upstream from the mouth of the Brisbane River. The city center is quite compact and easily explored on foot. The city is dominated by the sprawling, verandahed, timber houses on stilts, known as 'Queenslanders'. You don't get lost very easy, as it is situated between the looping meanders of the river. Most visitors who travel by bus, train, or arrive with the airport shuttle, first get to the transit center, about 500 m (550 yards) northwest of downtown.

When to Go

Brisbane has a pleasant subtropical climate. It receives about 450 mm of rain from January to March and it can get very hot in summer. The city has a year-round average of 7.5 hours of sunshine per day. The most pleasant time to visit Brisbane is during the winter (June to August). In that period, the days are warm and sunny and the nights are cool and refreshing. It is a delightful contrast to the chilly miserable weather further south. The winter is also the time, when most domestic tourists that escape the misery of Sydney and Melbourne, visit Brisbane. Other busy periods are Easter and Christmas.

If you prefer some peace and quiet, try to visit the city in May, or October, when the humidity is still bearable and the crowds have returned home. Brisbane doesn't suffer the unbearable humidity you'll find further north.

Throughout the year, there are many events in and around Brisbane. On Australia Day (26 January) Kangaroo Point hosts the cockroach races and in April the international comedy festival is held in Brisbane. In odd-numbered years, a music festival is organized in June. The Royal National Agricultural Show (the 'Ekka') is held at the Exhibition Grounds in mid-August. In the same month, the 12-day long international film festival, is celebrated. The outdoor Brisbane Festival is the city's major festival. It is held over a period of two weeks in mid-September. The Livid alternative rock festival takes place in October.

Places of interest

There are countless interesting sites in Brisbane, some of which include South Bank Parklands with the Wheel of Brisbane, the City Botanic Gardens, Roma Street Parkland, New Farm Park, the Howard Smith Wharves, the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary and the Teneriffe woolstores precinct. In Fortitude Valley you can visit James Street and Chinatown. Other sites include West End, City Hall and the Museum of Brisbane, the Parliament of Queensland, the Story Bridge and bridge climb; St John's Cathedral, ANZAC Square and the Queensland Cultural Centre that houses the Queensland Museum, Queensland Performing Arts Centre, Queensland Art Gallery, the Gallery of Modern Art and the State Library of Queensland. The Kangaroo Point Cliffs and park and the Queensland Maritime Museum are also well worth a visit.City Center

If you follow the golden arrows that are set in the street, you will be guided past many of Brisbane's remaining early buildings. The most interesting of these buildings line George Street. They include the Mansions and Harris Terrace. On the same street you can also see the Old Government House and Parliament House. Both these buildings date from the 1860's. The Old Windmill & Observatory, on Wickham Terrace, is even older. It dates from 1828. It was originally built to grind grain for the early convict colony but, because of a fundamental design error, it never worked properly. It was converted to a signal post and later it has been in use as a meteorological observatory. The old Italianate, sandstone Treasury building on the banks of the Brisbane River now serves as the Conrad Treasury Casino.

Queensland Cultural Center

The complex of Queensland Cultural Center, spans two blocks on either side of Melbourne Street in South Brisbane, just across Victoria Bridge. It is home to the State Library, the Performing Arts Complex and the Queensland Museum. The museum boasts a dinosaur garden and a good exhibition on whales. The cultural center is also houses Queensland Art Gallery, which has an impressive permanent Australian collection and plenty of temporary exhibits. There are various cafes in the Performing Arts Complex.

South Bank Parklands

South Bank was the site of Expo '88, but has since been redeveloped and is now one of the city's liveliest areas. It covers 16 hectares (40 acres) and includes numerous restaurants and cafes, an IMAX theatre, parklands, bike paths, a butterfly house, many market stalls and even a lovely swimming beach.

Mt Coot-tha

The lookout on Mt Coot-tha is a good place to go if you want to enjoy marvelous views over Brisbane. It lies 8 km (5 miles) from the city center and on clear days you can see the distant line of Moreton and Stradbroke Islands and the Glasshouse Mountains to the north, as well as the mountains behind the Gold Coast to the south.

Around Mt Coot-Tha and its foothills are several good walks, including the one to JC Slaughter Falls on Simpson's Road. Also at the foot of the mountain are the Mt Coot-Tha Botanic Gardens. They have an enclosed tropical dome, an arid zone, rainforests and a Japanese garden. Australia's largest planetarium, Sir Thomas Brisbane Planetarium, is also there.

Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary

The Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary is a half-hour bus ride south from Brisbane, but if you prefer, you can also get there by boat. The sanctuary is set in attractive parklands beside the river and is home to a wide variety of Australian wildlife, including kangaroos, possums, wombats, emus, lyrebirds and around 130 koalas. They are very cute and most visitors have their picture taken, hugging one. The money earned this way is invested in the sanctuary. If you're on a low budged, it is cheaper to hand-feed the tame kangaroos. If you like you can also bring your own food and have a picnic among the marsupials. Guides provide background information on the animals at set times throughout the day. A visit to the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary is an easy half-day trip from Brisbane.

Markets

Brisbnane's most popular markets are the South Bank markets. They feature craft and clothing stalls and are open every Friday evening, Saturday and Sunday.

On Sundays, the carnival-style Eagle St Pier markets, is held. There are some 150 stalls featuring glass blowing, weaving and other crafts.

The small Fortitude Valley market is held on Saturdays in Brunswick St Mall. It features a diverse array of stall that sell junk, crafts and clothes.

Brisbane Forest Park

The Brisbane Forest Park is a 285 km² (110 sq miles) large reserve of natural bush land in the D'Aguilar Range. The park starts Brisbane's outskirts and stretches for more than 50 km (30 miles) to the north and west. It is an excellent place for bush walking, cycling, horse riding, camping and scenic drives. The park features a number of good walking trails and facilities for camping. You will need your own transportation to get to the best walking trails.

The park boasts an information center and a freshwater study center called Walkabout Creek. At the center you can see fish, lizards, pythons and turtles. There is a bus from Brisbane that stops not far from information center.

Other Parks & Gardens

Brisbane's Botanical Gardens, in the center of town, occupy 18 hectares and are open 24 hours a day, At night they are lit. New Farm Park, by the river at the southern end of Brunswick Street, is noted for its rose displays, jacaranda trees and Devonshire teas. Captain John Burke Park is a nice little place underneath the towering Story Bridge, at the top of Kangaroo Point.

Australian Woolshed

The Australian Woolshed is a spacious park with free picnic and barbecue facilities, a small fauna park, where you can hug koalas and feed kangaroos and truly Australian attractions, such as sheep shearing and wool spinning. There is also a 'ram show', where eight trained rams get put through their paces by a bunch of canny sheepdogs. The Woolshed was set up, so tourists can taste the 'outback experience', without the need to go to the real outback. The park is 15 km (9 miles) northwest of Brisbane's city center and features a large souvenir shop.

You can get there by car, but you can also take a train. The railway station is about 800 m (870 yards) from the entrance. Many tour companies also include the Woolshed on their itinerary.

North Stradbroke Island

Since Brisbane itself has no beaches and the beaches of the city's eastern suburbs are quite muddy, many people come to North Stradbroke Island to enjoy the sun.

North Stradbroke Island is about 25 km (15 miles) southeast of Brisbane's city center and some 20 km (12 miles) off the coast from Cleveland. It is a sandy island, but there is plenty of vegetation and it has wonderful scenery. On weekends and during school holidays it can get quite crowded, but the rest of the time it is pretty quiet and peaceful.

The best beaches are located around Point Lookout, at the northeastern tip of the island. That part of the island offers good walking possibilities and you can often see porpoises, dolphins and manta rays from the headland, as well as snakes, goannas, wallabies and birds on the island itself. At the center of North Stradbroke Island is a freshwater lake, called Blue Lake. It is excellent for swimming.

You can get to the island by ferry from Cleveland. Some ferries will also take vehicles. Cleveland has good bus and train connections with Brisbane.

Other activities

There are numerous bush walking possibilities around Brisbane. Information can be obtained from the Brisbane Bushwalkers Club. There is a swimming pool at Spring Hill Baths in Torrington Square. It is among the oldest pools in the southern hemisphere and it is surrounded by old-style colorfully painted changing-cubicles. There are also swimming beaches around Brisbane. The best ones are on North Stradbroke Island, but there are also good beaches on the sheltered Moreton Bay. There are three main islands in the bay. Moreton Island, where you can enjoy wale watching and see wild dolphin feeding at night. It also boasts a colonial fort and a museum. North Stradbroke Island and Bribie Island. They can all be reached by ferry. The artificial lagoon at South Bank Parklands has a nice beach as well.

River cruises can be made on the restored Kookaburra River Queens paddle steamers. The ships depart from Eagle Street Pier. If you like rock climbing and abseiling, you should head for the Cliffs on the southern banks of the Brisbane River. The area is floodlit until midnight.

Brisbane includes numerous beachside suburbs that offer boating, sailing, fishing and kitesurfing. They include Shorncliffe, Sandgate, Wynnum, Manly and Wellington Point.

Transportation

Brisbane's Eagle Farm airport is a busy international arrival and departure point, where frequent flights are available to Asia, Europe, the Pacific islands, North America, New Zealand and Papua New Guinea. The airport is about 15 km (9 miles) northeast of the city center. A shuttle bus connects the airport with the Transit Center about every 30 minutes until late in the evening.

The Transit Center is Brisbane's main bus terminal. It is on Roma Street and all major bus companies use it as their arrival and departure point. The Transit Center is the first place that most visitors who arrive to Brisbane by bus, train, or airport shuttle, will get to. It is about 500 m (550 yards) northwest of downtown.

Trains arrive at the Transit Center as well. There are direct trains to Sydney, but if you want to go any further south or west, you'll have to change trains there. Rail travel within Queensland is slower and more expensive than traveling by bus, but it's usually much more comfortable. Rail passes are available. The fast Citytrain network has seven lines and is a good way to get around inside the city, especially if you want to visit the outskirts.

Buses connect Brisbane with Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide and Cairns, as well as many towns up and down the coast. There are also shuttle buses to the Gold and Sunshine Coasts. Apart from the usual city buses, inside Brisbane, there are Cityxpress services that run between the city center and the suburbs, as well as Rockets, which are fast, peak-hour commuter buses.

Taxis are not too expensive in Brisbane. There is an efficient ferry service along and across the Brisbane River and there is a riverside bicycle track from the City Botanic Gardens out to the University of Queensland.

Brisbane's Riverwalk network runs along much of the Brisbane River in the city's central area. A popular stretch runs beneath the Kangaroo Point Cliffs. Brisbane is also a very good city to explore by bike, as it has a large network of biking lanes.

Accommodation and food

Brisbane offers a wide variety of backpackers' hostels and budged-priced hotels, motels and self-contained apartments within a few blocks of the city center. There are also countless restaurants and cafés. Many of these places have taken advantage of the balmy climate and provide outdoor eating areas. The best restaurants are clustered around Paddington, Fortitude Valley and New Farm, on the South Bank and in the West End.

Brisbane is on the east coast of Australia, some 960 km northeast from Canberra and has excellent rail, bus and ferry networks, as well as a large airport.