Jakarta

Jakarta's oldest recorded history starts at the port of Sunda Kelapa in the Kota district of the present-day city. The port was a bustling place during the Pajajaran dynasty, which was the last Hindu kingdom on West Java before the arrival of the Portuguese in 1522. The Pajajaran and the Portuguese were driven out by Muslim saint and leader Sunan Gunungjati in 1527. Gunungjati established a fiefdom of the Banten sultanate and renamed the port 'Jayakarta', which means 'victorious city'.

By the early 17th century the Dutch and English had set up trade posts in he region. Rivalry between them was great and in 1618, a combined force of Jayakartans and Brits attacked the fortress of the Dutch Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie (VOC). Local leader Banten was annoyed by the action of the Jayakartans and decided to help the Dutch. His intervention helped the Dutch to their victory. The Dutch renamed their fort Batavia and a few months after the attack, they completely razed Jayakarta. They extended the fort, which became a walled town not long after. Batavia grew and was proclaimed the capital of the Dutch East Indies. During the next decade, locals mounted various disastrous attacks on the Dutch, but they never succeeded in taking the fort.

Batavia continued to grow and for the next hundred years, Indonesians and Chinese started arriving in ever-larger numbers. The city was very prosperous, but because of its rapid growth, strain was becoming apparent and ethnic tensions rose. Deportations and ethnic gangs created unrest in Batavia's outposts and in October 1740 the Dutch ordered a search of Chinese premises. This triggered a massacre, in which Batavia's Dutch citizens slaughtered some 5000 Chinese. The remaining Chinese residents were moved to an area outside the walled city the next year. Others relocated because of 45 years of epidemic disease in Batavia. As a result Batavia started to spread over a large area and from the second half of the 18th century, until WWII, the Dutch oversaw a rapidly expanding network of suburbs.

During WWII, the Japanese took control of Java, the island where Batavia (Jakarta) was situated. In 1945, when the war was over, the Dutch returned to their former colony, ignoring the fact that nationalist leader Soekarno had already declared the Republic of Indonesia to be independent. The Dutch, aided by a large British force, fought hard to retain control and launched several bloody attacks, including the one on 10 November 1945, which is now remembered as 'Heroes Day'. On that date the British killed thousands of Indonesians, while thousands more were forced to flee to the countryside. Soekarno's forced continued to fight the British, who finally decided to leave the colony, as world opinion started turning against them. Now the Dutch were on their own, leaving no more than 55,000 troops to stay in control. The Dutch jailed Indonesian republicans and bombed cities to root out resistance. A Dutch officer in Suluwesi reportedly murdered 40,000 Indonesians in an attempt to stabilize the area. Soekarno and his deputy Hatta had to move their capital to Yogyakarta to avoid a confrontation with the Dutch, who remained in firm control of Jakarta. While the capital was relatively quiet, fighting continued in the rest of Indonesia and the Dutch finally recognized the Republican government in November 1946. The next year they mounted a huge offensive though, causing the UN to step in.

In the meantime, the Republicans had problems of their own, caused by internal opposition from the communist PKI. The problems with the colonizers ended, after the Dutch launched a huge assault on the Indonesians in 1948, in contravention of a UN directive. The assault was met by massive international condemnation that forced the Dutch to withdraw and hand over power to the Indonesians on 27 December 1949.

Peace returned to the island nation, but not for long. After independence Indonesia became a parliamentary democracy, but lack of ideas, resourced and funding didn't get the country anywhere and the rudderless parliament was overthrown by Soekarno himself. He declared martial law and initiated a more authoritarian style of government, which he called 'Guided Democracy'. Soekarno's move was met by quick response from the population. Rebellions broke out in Sumatra and Sulawesi, but they were eventually crushed in 1958 and peace returned. Soekarno ordered numerous grand structures glorifying the Republic to be built in Jakarta. At the same time, the military slowly whittled away power from Soekarno and they finally appointed Lieutenant General Ali Sadikin to reshape the capital in a grand style. Sadikin dramatically improved infrastructure, but it was at the expense of the city's slum dwellers, which were forced to leave Jakarta's huge shantytowns. The power struggle between Soekarno and senior military officials continued and finally exploded in bloody conflicts in 1965. Numerous were killed in the streets of Jakarta and peace only returned after Soeharto, a mid-level general and superb tactician, seized control.

Soeharto's government was in firm control of Indonesia, but it was marked by large scale corruption and nepotism. For the next 30 years Soeharto remained in control and Indonesia remained at peace. Jakarta, which once had the reputation of being a poverty-ridden expanse of shanties, mutated into a modern metropolis with the appearance of an Asian boomtown. As a result it became Indonesia's most polluted, traffic congested and expensive city.

At the end of the 1990's however, the Asian economic crisis hit Indonesia extremely hard. Indonesia had to be bailed out by the IMF, but the economic restraints caused food shortages and price hikes that sparked fierce anti-government demonstrations. In May 1998, the army shot six students, triggering even more riots. Indonesians did not only blame the government for the crisis, but also Chinese immigrants, who controlled an important part of the economy. Many Chinses possessions were destroyed and thousands of Chinese fled the country, leaving Indonesia with even larger economic problems. Many of Jakarta's shopping malls, offices, banks and businesses that were owned by ethnic Chinese and the ruling Soeharto family were destroyed and more than 500 people were killed in Jakarta during the week of fighting. Soeharto finally stood down on 21 May and according to Indonesia's constitution his vice-president B.J. Habibie, who was not very popular either, replaced him. Habibie promised economic reforms, democracy and autonomy for the East Timorese, but his government was weak and little progress was made. In 1999 elections were held and Abdurrahman Wahid came to power. He continued the same way as his predecessor and was finally forced to hand over power to his vice-president Megawati Soekarno Putri. Indonesia, in the meantime, remains a place of ethnic and religious violence, especially in areas like Aceh and West Papua, which seek independence from Jakarta, like East Timor got. Jakarta is still the country's most expensive city. It continues to face all the problems of over-population, including traffic congestion, pollution and housing shortages. It remains an interesting place and one of southeast Asia's most exciting metropolises.

Jakarta sprawls over 25 km (15 miles) from its docks in the north to the suburbs of South Jakarta. Jakarta doesn't really have a center. The city is more like many small towns grown together, each of which has its own center. One of Jakarta's landmarks is Merdeka Square, the large barren field that contains the National Monument (Monas) with its golden tip. It sits in the geographical center of town and it is a good point of orientation when exploring the city. The area south of the square is the most interesting for travelers. It contains the main shopping and deluxe hotel thoroughfare of Jl Thamrin. Most restaurants and cheap hotels can be found east of the Merdeka Square. Jakarta suffers of vast traffic jams, incredible pollution and heat.

When to Go

Maximum temperatures hover above 30°C (86°F) all year round, while the weather is often wet. Torrential rains occur throughout the year, but from May to September they are less frequent and the chances of staying dry are higher. There are several interesting events in Jakarta, including the Jakarta Fair, which is held 22 June and lasts about three weeks. During the Fair, the Jakarta Fairgrounds are filled with people who come to see industrial exhibits, cultural events and, of course, rides.

Indonesia proclaimed indepence on 17 August 1945 and although Indonesia did not become legally independent from The Netherlands until 27 December 1949, Independence Day is celebrated on 17 August. During that day grand parades and celebrations are organized in Jakarta and a flag-raising ceremony is held in Merdeka Place. On 17 August numerous carnivals and cultural shows spontaneously pop up across the city. Other interesting events include the Jakarta International Cultural Performance in May and the Jalan Jaksa Street Fair in August, both of which are colorful, lively and well worth attending.

Places of interest

Old Batavia

The old town of Batavia is the oldest and best preserved reminder of the Dutch presence in Jakarta. Originally it included a huge fortress on the shoreline and the entire area used to be surrounded by a wall and a moat for protection, but at the beginning of the 19th century the Dutch destroyed most of the city for health reasons. Up to then the filthy streets, were a haven for diseases, so the Dutch decided to get rid of Batavia's less hygienic area's. Fortunately not all was destroyed and there are plenty of interesting examples of Dutch influence left in Old Batavia.

Some of Batavia's old buildings are still in use, but most of them were restored in the 1970's and serve as museums nowadays. The cobble stoned square of Taman Fatahillah serves as the center of Old Batavia. West of the square is the canal of Kali Besar that once was the border of Batavia's high-class residential area, where all the Dutch officials used to live. On the canal's western bank stand several big private homes that date from the 18th century. You can cross the canal via the Chicken Market Bridge, Jakarta's only remaining 17th century Dutch drawbridge. Old Batavia is immediately north of Jakarta's city center, not far from the Kota railway station.

Sunda Kelapa

The old Dutch port of Sunda Kelapa is only a 10-minute walk from the Taman Fatahillah square in Old Batavia. The port is always filled with more sailing ships than you could ever dream of, including the brightly painted Makassar schooners, known as pinisi. These marvelous ships are used to transport freight and deliver other goods from the capital to Indonesia's outer islands and vice versa. You can have a closer look at the ships by looking for the old men, who hang around the port and who will take you out to the ships in small row boats if you pay them. Some of the men are former sailors themselves and can tell you all about the ships. If you would like to see the majestic schooners under sail, you should go out as far as the Pulau Seribu (Thousand Islands) in the Bay of Jakarta.

Early in the morning is the best time to visit the nearby fish market of Pasar Ikan. It is a colorful place, filled with busy, bartering crowds.

Jakarta History Museum

The Jakarta History Museum is probably the most interesting reminder of Dutch rule in Indonesia. It is housed in the old Batavia Town Hall, which dates from 1627. It includes a bell tower and used to serve as Batavia's administration, law court and prison compound. In the museum you can see beautifully carved furniture, as well as countless other artifacts from the Dutch period. In the Jakarta History Museum one can also see portraits of all the Dutch governors-general and early pictures of Batavia that give an excellent idea of the city's development. The Jakarta History Museum is just south of the Taman Fatahillah square.

Merdeka Square

Most of the monuments in Jakarta that were constructed after Indonesia's independence were built on a grand scale to represent the country's power and importance. Most of these monuments are tasteless monstrosities. One of Soekarno's 'greatest' legacies is the 132 m (433 feet) tall National Monument, known as Monas. The marble and gold monument sits at the center of the barren and desolate Merdeka Square. Construction of Monas started in 1961, but it was not until 1975 that it was finished under Soeharto. It symbolizes Indonesia's strength and independence. At the base of the monument is the National History Museum, which includes 48 dioramas that present a selective and somewhat overstated view of Indonesian history. You can get to the top of the monument by elevator for great views over Jakarta, although pollution and damp weather cause the views to be clear only rarely.

Taman Mini Indonesia Indah

The Taman Mini Indonesia Indah is a huge park in the southeast of Jakarta. It was conceived by Mme. Tien Soeharto in 1971, opened in 1975 and represents the traditional cultures of Indonesia's 27 provinces. The 100-hectare (250 acres) large park is Jakarta's most visited attraction and it is quite impressive. It includes 27 full-scale houses, where you can see examples of regional handicrafts and clothing. The houses are built around a lagoon and can be visited by boat. You can also view them from a cable car. There are also several museums, theatres and restaurants in the park, as well as an orchid garden and a bird park. Taman Mini Indonesia Indah is 18 km (11 miles) southeast of Jakarta's central area and served by bus and metro-mini.

Other sights

Other places of interest in Jakarta include the Gereja Sion church, which is the oldest in Jakarta and the zoo, where you can see Komodo dragons and orangutans. The Indonesian National Museum houses a huge collection of cultural objects from the country's various ethnic groups and the Statue of Welcome, which is known locally as 'Hansel and Gretel' is one of Jakarta's major landmarks.

Around Jakarta

One of the most interesting places in the capital's vicinity is the former hill station of Bogor, where you can visit the Kebun Raya botanical gardens.

Activities

Because Jakarta is a crowded, polluted and hot city, it is not the most suitable place for outdoor pursuits, such as cycling or rollerblading. Jakarta's beaches are not very good either and if you want to enjoy some sand, sea of fresh air, you should head for the beaches of West Java or the mountains, south of the capital.

Transportation

Since Jakarta sits on the island of Java, most travelers arrive there by air. Jakarta's Soekarno-Hatta international airport is 35 km (21 miles) west of the city center and served by several international airlines, including Garuda, Qantas, KLM, Lufthansa and Air New Zealand. Various domestic airlines serve the capital as well. The airport is linked to the city center by a toll road and the journey takes about an hour, although during rush hours it will take you longer. Good Damri bus services ply the route, as do metered taxis that are available from ranks. There are also unregistered taxis, but you should avoid these, as they will most likely rip you off.

It is also possible to arrive to Jakarta by boat from Singapore, although tourists use that option far less frequent. Ferries run about three times a week between the two cities. Boats are also the most popular way to go from Jakarta to other islands in the Indonesian archipelago. Many services connect Jakarta with almost any destination throughout the country.

There are three major bus stations around the outskirts of Jakarta, from where buses leave for destinations in other parts of Java. The island has a good rail network that is centered on Jakarta.

Jakarta's traffic is relentless and congested, so getting around in the city is slow and will cost you a lot of your time. Walking is no option, as attractions are usually far apart and it will probably be too hot anyway. The best bet of moving around in the capital is the Jakarta bus network, which is one of the best in Asia.

Another good form of transportation within Jakarta is by taxi. For short trips, you can also take a bajaj (motorized rickshaw). It is essential to haggle over the price before getting in though.

Accommodation and Food

Most of the cheaper accommodation in Jakarta is situated along Jalan Jaksa, a small street south of the National Monument. In the same area numerous mid-range hotels are located. West of that area is the main shopping and deluxe hotel thoroughfare of Jl Thamrin. Most street hawkers, markets and restaurants can be found around Jalan Jaksa and Jalan Surabaya in Menteng, although food is also available from the countless markets that are scattered all over the capital.

The city's cultural showcase is the Taman Ismail Marzuki, which hosts a variety of Western and Indonesian performances, such as poetry readings, jazz concerts, showings of international films and gamelan concerts. On Jalan M H Thamrin are several expensive bars, discos and restaurants that offer live acts. At Taman Ria at Merdeka Square you can see local talents perform for free if you are on a tight budget.

Jakarta sits on the northwestern tip of Java.