Manila

Not much is known about the Philippines's history prior to the arrival of the Europeans, although archaeological finds suggest that a rich pre-colonial culture existed, which was dominated by trade with Asian neighbors, as well as the powerful Hindu empires in Java and Sumatra. By the 10th century extensive trade relations with China were established, while trade with the Arab world peaked in the 12th century. In the 16th century the Spanish arrived and by that time Islam was well established in large parts of the archipelago.

The Spanish tried to eradicate the terrible 'pagan' Filipino society, with reasonable success. In 1521, when they tried to colonize the Philippines, one of the first colonizers, explorer Ferdinand Magellan, was killed and the Spanish stole as much as they could and left the islands. Almost half a century later they tried again. In 1565 Miguel de Legaspi arrived on Cebu Island and set up camp there. In 1571 they mover their base to Manila.

Manila's port, at the mouth of the Pasig River, is thought to have been founded in the 12th century. When Legaspi arrived there, trade along the river was controlled by a local leader named Sulayman. Sulayman burned everything that could be of use to the Spaniards and fled across the river to Tondo, where he prepared a fighting force to get rid of the colonizers. On 3 June 1571, the Battle of Bangkusay Channel was won by the Spanish, as the locals' spears and arrows were no match for the Spaniards' superior muskets and cannons. Sulayman's death marked the beginning of Spain's rule over the archipelago, which would last 327 years. Immediately after the Battle of Bangkusay Channel, Legaspi started the construction of Spanish Manila and spreading Catholicism, as well as feudalism. Trade remained the colonizers' priority though, with the Spaniards using the Philippines as a stop-over point for their China-Mexico trade route.

When Spanish power in Europe declined, as a result of several defeats during the 18th and 19th centuries, the Philippines became politically unstable. In 1896, the scholar, doctor and passive supporter of Philippine independence, Jose Rizal was executed. This event sparked a huge revolt that destabilized the Spanish even further. The war between the Spanish and the Americans that started two years later didn't help much either and Spanish rule in the Philippines was abruptly ended. The Americans occupied Manila to use it as their base for a newer form of cultural imperialism. The Americans quickly remodeled the islands to its own image. During WWII the Philippines were occupied by Japan and at the end of that war, independence was granted, although the Americans attached some conditions to that.

They remained active in the Philippines and U.S.-style political parties were established. The Americans also retained two military bases in the country and continued to control the Philippines economy.

In 1972, elected President Ferdinand Marcos declared martial law, which quickly changed into total dictatorial control. During his rule corruption, cronyism and economic mismanagement flourished. In 1983, Marcos' main opponent, Benigno Aquino, was assassinated. This event caused rioting in the streets of Manila and forced Marcos to call elections in 1986. Both he and his rival Corazon Aquino claimed victory, but the people's support for the popular opposition leader, won her the presidency. Several days later Marcos and his wife Imelda went into exile in Hawaii, where Ferdinand Marcos died in 1989. Imelda eventually returned to the Philippines, where a conviction immediately eluded her.

Corazon Aquino could not handle the tide of corruption endemic in the post-Marcos Philippines and soon handed over party leadership to Protestant Fidel Ramos. Under his rule the communist guerilla war that had been raging in the Philippines was ended, but he too fell to a groundswell of popular support for aging B-grade movie actor Joseph Estrada in 1998. Estrada was impeached and stood trial in December 2000 for allegedly pocketing millions of dollars worth of bribes from local gambling syndicates. Large parts of the money were said to have been used lavish houses for his several mistresses.

Once again the people revolted and in January 2001 former vice-President Gloria Arroyo came to power. Ongoing leadership problems and kidnapping exploits of Muslim radical separatists based on the island of Mindanao will keep the Philippines in the news for time to come.

Manila is a huge, modern looking city, which suffers from the usual urban problems such as incense and pollution. Large parts of the capital were destroyed during WWII, but some interesting colonial ruins have survived. One of them is the area of Intramuros, the old walled Spanish town where most of the city's historical sights are concentrated. It lies immediately south of the Pasig River, while the rest of Manila sprawls east from Manila Bay along the river. The Malate and Ermita districts further south form the capital's 'tourist belt', where numerous restaurants, accommodation and travel agencies are located. Manila's countless bars and entertainment venues will keep you going for days if necessary.

When to Go

There are two seasons in Manila: The dry season, which lasts from December to May and the rainy season, which is the rest of the year. During the rainy season it rains heavy almost continuously and between June and November typhoons occur frequently. Temperatures hover around 30 °C (86 °F) throughout the year. The best time to visit Manila and the surrounding area is from February to April.

All major Christian festivals are celebrated in the Philippines. Offices and banks are usually closed during public holidays, but shops and department stores often stay open. On 12 June Independence Day is celebrated, while Bonifacio Day (National Heroes Day) is on 30 November and Rizal Day on 30 December. One of the biggest events is Good Friday, on which the entire country comes to a virtual halt. On that Friday there is no public transport and the national airlines don't fly. On Good Friday there are countless crucifixion ceremonies all over the country. The ones at San Fernando and Antipolo, not far from Manila are the most popular ones.

Places of Interest

Intramuros

Intramuros was originally a Chinese settlement. The Spanish reconstructed it as a fort in 1590, replacing the wooden buildings with stone ones. The area was gradually expanded until it became a walled city (hence Intramuros, which roughly translates as 'inside walls'). Within the 6 m (20 feet) high, 13 m (43 feet) thick walls were 15 churches and six monasteries. The walls stretch for some 3 km (1.8 miles) and are all that remains of Intramuros nowadays. General Douglas MacArthur used Intramuros as his base during the American-Spanish War, widening its streets and tearing down old buildings. Many of the remaining buildings, were destructed during bitter fighting at the end of WWII.

Recently renovations have begun to save some of the remaining structures. Some of the most interesting sights in Intramuros include Casa Manila, the church and monastery of San Agustin and the Manila Cathedral, which has been damaged or destroyed six times since it was built, but it was rebuilt every time. The church and monastery of San Agustin have remained almost untouched since construction of the site began. The ruins of Fort Santiago sit in a pleasant park and so is the Rizal Shrine Museum, devoted to Jose Rizal, the Filipino martyr, which is also worth a visit. Intramuros is immediately south of the Pasig River, in the center of Manila.

Rizal Park

The quiet and neat Rizal Park is also known as Luneta. It separates Intramuros and the rest of Manila from the tourist center of Ermita. The park is a popular hang out and especially on Sundays it is filled with locals. Rizal's execution site is marked by statues of Jose Rizal's execution. It sits in the park's northwestern corner. Other interesting sights in Rizal Park include a planetarium, a Chinese and Japanese garden, several fountains, a floral clock and an area for roller-skaters. At the southeastern fringe of the park is the Children's Amusement Park, which features two enormous statues of dinosaurs.

Beaches

The most popular beaches in the vicinity of Manila are Matabungkay and Nasugbu, where scuba diving facilities are available and swimming is good.

Around Manila

There are many interesting places, not too far from Manila. They include Corregidor, a small island at the mouth of Manila Bay; Olongapo & Subic, a former U.S. naval base that has been turned into a nature park; the city of Angeles, which was almost destroyed by a volcanic eruption; Pagsanjan, a popular place for canoeing and the volcanic crater Lake Taal, 75 km south of Manila.

Activities

There are numerous Historical tours available in Manila, especially in and around Intramuros. The city's beaches are excellent for swimming and scuba diving. Most visitors to Manila come to do some dancing and drinking in the city's countless bars and clubs.

Transportation

The main international airport in Manila is Ninoy Aquino. It is a chaotic place with poor signage, an illogical layout and it is always packed with people. Some airlines are now flying to Mactan Island Airport in Cebu City, to avoid the chaos. Ninoy Aquino has good bus and taxi connections with the center of Manila, 8 km (5 miles) to the north. About 2 km (1.2 miles) from the airport is a Metrorail (MRT) station.

You can also get to Manila by bus, but the organization and chaos are of the same kind as the airport's. There is no central long-distance bus terminal in Manila, so it is a miracle if you find the right bus. Once on the bus, the trip will generally be smooth. It is possible to get from Manila to the Bicol region in the south of the country by rail, but the trains are slow and dangerous.

Manila's city bus system is quite efficient despite the traffic mess. Especially during rush hours delays are frequent. If you have to cross Manila in north-south direction, it is much better to take the Metrorail, or MRT. The trains run on elevated tracks, high above the traffic jams, but during peak hours they too get very crowded with commuters. Taxis, jeepneys en rented cars are other ways to get around Manila, but with public transport so good and the traffic such a nightmare, there is really no need for that.

Accommodation and Food

There are numerous hotels and restaurants scattered all over Manila. In the district of Ermita you will find many cheap guesthouses, while that district, together with Malate forms the capital's 'tourist belt', where numerous restaurants, accommodation and travel agencies are situated. Manila is well known for its 'Girlie bars', but there are also numerous 'normal' bars and clubs, where you can enjoy music and drinks.

Manila sits on the western coast of Luzon, the Philippines' second largest island.