Darwin
photo
© Hagai Agmon-Snir


The first attempts to settle Australia's Top End were mostly due to British fears that the French or the Dutch might get a foothold in Australia. The British built Fort Dundas on Melville Island and Fort Wellington on the Cobourg Peninsula between 1824 and 1829, but both forts were abandoned not long after.

In 1839, John Lort Stokes, arrived in the region with the Beagle. He discovered a natural harbor that he named Port Darwin after former shipmate, Charles Darwin.

In 1845, explorer Leichardt reached Port Essington overland from Brisbane. This event ignited some interest in the Top End. In 1863 the region came under the control of South Australia and a year later, a settlement was established at Escape Cliffs on the mouth of the Adelaide River, not too far from Darwin's present location. In 1866 the settlement was abandoned.

Finally in 1869, Darwin was founded around the harbor that John Lort Stoke had discovered 30 years earlier. The town grew very slow, as the European settlers received fierce resistance from the indigenous Aboriginal population. The Aborigines tried to resist the takeover of land, on which their way of life depended.

Darwin started expanding more rapidly, after gold was discovered at Pine Creek, some 200 km (124 mi) south of town, in 1871. When the gold fever was over, things slowed down again, as, apart from gold, there was little reason for settlers to move to the region. Darwin has a harsh, unpredictable climate that includes occasional cyclones, while communications with other Australian cities was poor.

Growth continued at a slow rate and by the beginning of the 20th century, most of the surviving Aboriginal people who had inhabited the region around Darwin were confined to government reserves or Christian missions, or were living on cattle stations working as stockmen or domestic help.

During WWII, Darwin became an important base for Allied action against the Japanese in the Pacific. The road south to the rail terminus in Alice Springs was surfaced to progress the flow of materials and provisions for the base, finally linking Darwin with the rest of Australia. Darwin was the only city in Australia to suffer Japanese attacks, 64 all together, in which 243 people lost their lives.

On Christmas Day 1974, some 60% of Darwin's 11,200 houses were destroyed by Cyclone Tracy. The cyclone blew in at an estimated 280 km/h. Most of the city's historic buildings were reconstructed after the cyclone.

Nowadays Darwin is the gateway to northern Australia and the region's administrative and mining center. The city is closer to Jakarta and Singapore than to Sydney or Melbourne and as a result, its focus is on Asia, as much as on Australia. That proximity and familiarity with its Asian neighbors is reflected in the town's relaxed, cosmopolitan, tropical atmosphere.

Darwin's compact city center sits at the end of a peninsula and can easily be explored on foot. The suburbs spread 12 to 15 km (7 to 9 mi) to the north and east.

When to Go

Many people think the wet season (October to March) is the best time to visit Darwin, as everything is green, there's no dust, barramundi fishing is at its best, prices drop, there are spectacular electrical storms and it is nice and quiet as most tourists have departed. The tourists aren't there for a reason though: the humidity is often unbearable, roads are impassable, swimming in the ocean is impossible and cyclones are something of a worry.

Late wet, early dry is probably the best season to visit the region, as the rains taper off and the humidity drops, but whatever time of year you come to Darwin, temperatures mostly hover between 30°C and 33°C (86°F and 91°F).

Most events take place in July and August.

Beach parties and rock concerts are organized on May Day to celebrate the start of the swimming season and the absence of box jellyfish. The Royal Darwin Show is held in July, while the Festival of Darwin in August includes the Beer Can Regatta, a series of boat races of craft that are entirely constructed of beer cans. The Rodeo and Mud Crab Tying Competition and the Darwin Cup horse race are also held in August.

Points of interest
Parks and recreation
Around Darwin
Transportation

Darwin's airport is 6 km (4 mi) from the city center. It services both international and domestic routes. There are numerous flights between Darwin and Indonesia and other location in Southeast Asia. Flights to all other Australian states are available too, but often they make a stop in Alice Springs, Brisbane or Adelaide. A shuttle bus connects the airport with downtown and taxis are also available.

Darwin can be reached using three bus routes. There are connections with Broome, Derby, Port Hedland and Kununurra, via the Western Australian route, Mount Isa to Threeways and up the Track, via the Queensland route and straight up the Track from Alice Springs. All buses arrive at the transit center, in the center of town.

Darwin's local bus network is fairly good, but it only operates to the full from Monday to Friday. On Saturdays, only a fraction of the buses are available and on Sundays they don't run at all. Shuttles between Darwin's major sights are operated by several private bus companies.

Darwin has an extensive network of bicycle tracks. Most hotels and backpackers' hostels rent bikes.

Accommodation and food

There is a wide variety of accommodation in Darwin, including hostels, guesthouses, motels, holiday flats and a some up-market hotels. The most expensive places are clustered along the beach. There are also many caravan parks, but they are various kilometers out of town.

Darwin is close to Asia, which heavily influences the city's restaurant scene. You will find a large number of Asian eateries in Darwin. Most takeaway places are concentrated on Smith Street mall. The best places to find really cheap food are the Asian-style markets, such as the one held at Mindil Beach on Thursday nights during the dry season.

Darwin is located in the far north of the Northern Territory, west of Arnhem Land and some 3,130 km northwest of Canberra.


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Images

Darwin ©Hagai Agmon-Snir
Darwin ©Hagai Agmon-Snir

Darwin ©Alex Healing
Darwin ©Alex Healing

Parliament building ©Sarah Stewart
Parliament building ©Sarah Stewart

Darwin ©Gary Bembridge
Darwin ©Gary Bembridge

Nitmiluk National Park ©Kimble Young
Nitmiluk National Park ©Kimble Young

St. Mary's Star of the Sea Catholic Cathedral ©Torbenbrinker
St. Mary's Star of the Sea Catholic Cathedral ©Torbenbrinker

Bicentennial Park ©Hagai Agmon-Snir
Bicentennial Park ©Hagai Agmon-Snir


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