Erdene Zuu Khiid (Hundred Treasures Monastery) was constructed with material that was left over from Karakorum, after the ancient city was destroyed by Manchurian soldiers. Construction of the monastery was started in 1586, but it was not finished until about 300 years later. It was Mongolia's first center of Lamaism and included some 100 temples. In its heyday, the monastery housed about 1,000 monks, who lived in 300 gers that were set up inside the walls.

The monastery was abandoned and subsequently damaged by invading Manchurians. Later, Stalinists destroyed all but three of the temples, which were allowed to reopen as a museum in 1965. It was not until the collapse of communism that the monastery became active again.

Nowadays the three remaining temples are surrounded by high walls and dedicated to the three stages of a Buddha's life: as a child, adolescent and adult. The main temple is the central Zuu of Buddha that features statues of Buddha as a child.

The boundaries of old Karakorum were marked by 4 turtle rocks, of which 2 are extant and can be seen just outside the monastery's walls.

The phallic rock is hidden in a small valley in the hills around the monastery. It is only a short walk away and according to local tradition, all women who visit the rock must have sex within 24 hours.

The best way to visit the Erdene Zuu Khiid is to stay at the nearby city of Kharkhorin and visit them on a day trip. You can get to Kharkhorin by air and bus from Ulaanbaatar. There are several hotels and restaurants in Kharkhorin. The town is 400 km southwest of Ulaanbaatar.

Erdene Zuu Khiid ©Richard Mortel

Erdene Zuu Khiid ©Richard Mortel

Erdene Zuu Khiid ©Richard Mortel