Dzhengis Khan started building the capital city of his Mongolian Empire at Karakorum in 1220. After his death, his son Ogedai Khan completed construction, but it only served as capital for 40 years, after which Kublai Khan moved his capital to what is now Beijing. After that the Mongolian Empire collapsed and Karakorum was destroyed by Manchurian soldiers.

Materials left over from the city were used to build the Erdene Zuu Khiid (Hundred Treasures monastery). Construction was started in 1586, but it was not finished until about 300 years later. It was Mongolia's first center of Lamaism and included some 100 temples, but nowadays only 3 of them remain.

The boundaries of old Karakorum were marked by 4 turtle rocks, of which 2 are extant and can be seen just outside the monastery's walls.

The phallic rock is hidden in a small valley in the hills around the monastery. It is only a short walk away and according to local tradition, all women who visit the rock must have sex within 24 hours.

The best way to visit the ruins of Karakorum is to stay at the nearby city of Kharkhorin and visit them on a day trip. You can get to Kharkhorin by air and bus from Ulaanbaatar. There are several hotels and restaurants in Kharkhorin. The town is 400 km southwest of Ulaanbaatar.

Karakorum ©Alexander Popovkin