Kumasi - Gheos Worldguide

Kumasi

Kumasi is the ancient capital of the Ashanti kingdom. It lies in the heart of Ashanti country some 200 km (120 mi) northwest of Accra. The city is Ghana's major cultural and economic center. There is nothing left of the original city, as it was sacked by the British during the fourth Ashanti war in 1874.

The British finally took over in 1896 and the city started expanding rapidly. When Ghana gained its independence in 1957, Kumasi became the capital of the Ashanti Region and it remained the seat of the Asantehene. Nowadays, the Ashanti King still lives in Kumasi.

The city is the center of Asante culture, hence also being nicknamed 'Osei-Krom', or 'Oseikrom', which is the local name for the Asante country.

The surrounding area consists of green hills as far as you can see. The city itself is lush with trees and plants and it is often referred to as the 'Garden City'. As a result of all the forest, Kumasi is Ghana's main timber processing center and about half of the country's timber processing takes place in the city.

The city's grid has always followed the patterns of The Asante Empire's traditional land settlement. Nowadays, Kumasi suffers from rapid growth, resulting in unregulated settlement, poor service and large slum areas.

Points of interest

Most people come to Kumasi to visit the National Cultural Center northwest of the railway station. You can buy handicrafts and musical instruments there. Lesson to play those instruments are given as well. The Cultural Center also includes a small museum that exhibits the Ashanti history and its exhibition includes the fake Golden Stool that fooled the British who demanded the real one, supposed to hold the Ashanti empire's strength. The British found out only decades later. The stool is so sacred that it is not allowed to touch the ground and nobody can sit on it, not even the king. You can see a photo of the original stool at the museum.
The real stool is kept at Manhyia Palace and is only used to celebrate special occasions. The Manhyia Palace is also known as Asantehene's Palace. It is home of the Ashanti King, although he lives in a new palace directly behind the old one. The old palace can be visited and when you are in Kumasi during the Adae festival, which is celebrated during the 42 day cycle when the Ashanti religious calendar culminates in Akwasidee. If you're lucky, you might even meet the king. The tourist office at the Cultural Center can tell you exactly on which days this festival takes place.
West of the Cultural Center is the Anokye Sword. According to the legend, it marks the place where the Golden Stool descended from the heavens. This event marked the beginning of the Ashanti people. The same legend tells that when the sword is ever pulled out of the ground the Ashanti people will disappear.
Kumasi's zoo is directly east of the Cultural Center. It has lush gardens and some animals roam freely, but it is poorly maintained and many of its buildings are in a state of disrepair. The zoo is often referred to as the Kumasi Zoological Garden. it is located at the heart of the city.
The Botanic gardens near the University are also nice to walk around in.
Accra's central market is also known as the Kejetia Market. It is immediately north of the railway station, a kilometer or so east of the Cultural Center. There is not much you can't buy there.
There is a Military Museum in the old Kumasi Fort, but its exhibition of colonial weaponry is not exactly exiting.

Places of worship

There are countless churches in Kumasi, including the Methodist Church, the Presbyterian Church of Ghana, the Anglican Church of the Province of West Africa, the Seventh-day Adventist Church Evangelical Presbyterian Church, the Christ Apostolic Church International, Ghana Baptist Convention, Lighthouse Chapel International, the Church of Pentecost, the Assemblies of God and the Catholic Church Archdiocese of Kumasi.
Mosques in Kumasi include the Ahmadiyya mosque, Alhaj mosque, Kaase-Nhyiaeso mosque, Kumasi Central Mosque and Rahman mosque.

Parks

Kumasi boasts numerous recreational parks and gardens that are open to the public. Some of the most popular parks include:
- Abbey's Park
- Hero's Park
- Jackson's Park
- Rattray Park.
Most of the parks in Kumasi are poorly maintained.

Around Kumasi

There are a number of small craft villages around Kumasi where you can buy various excellent handicrafts. Each village has its own specialty.
- Ahwiaa is specialized in woodcarvings.
- Bonwire is where you will find kente cloth and weavings.
- Other weavings, especially andinkra cloth can be found at Ntonso.
- In Kurufuforum they specialize in brass casting.
- In nearby Pankrono you can buy good pottery.
The best way to visit the villages is to hire a taxi for the day or go there by minibus (tro-tro) from Kumasi.
Lake Bosomtwe is 30 km from Kumasi. It is a sacred crater lake that is supposed to be bottomless. It lies in a refreshing area and you can safely swim in the lake. There is a hotel near the lake as well.

Accommodation in Kumasi is widely available and restaurants are scattered all over town, though the cheapest ones are the chop bars along the railway. There is a swimming pool at the University campus.

Since Kumasi is a major transportation hub in Ghana, you won't have any trouble finding a taxi or tro-tro (minibus). There are three main truck parks in town, all within one kilometer from the railway station.

At the Kejetia Park you will find transport to areas northwest and northeast of Kumasi, while the Zongo Park serves the north. For destinations south of Kumasi you will have to go to the Asafo Park. Kumasi has rail links with Takoradi and Accra and there are several flights per week to Accra and Tamale. There many buses, tro-tro and taxis to all cities in Ghana.

You will see many street hawkers in Kumasi, selling everything they can earn a living with, including water, bread, chocolate, plantain chips, chewing gum, books, puppies and cigarettes, amongst others.

Images

Kumasi ©Hugues
Kumasi ©Hugues

Kumasi ©Maarten van der Bent
Kumasi ©Maarten van der Bent