Sydney
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© Roy Digital Design


It is thought that the first humans came to Australia from Southeast Asia, across the sea, some 50,000 years ago. They were nomadic tribes that spread across the continent. In the area that is nowadays Sydney, there were three main tribes, the Ku-ring-gai, the Dharawal and the Dharug (or Daruk). They all had their own language, rituals and culture. They occupied different nomadic areas that only occasionally overlapped. Indigenous Australians were the world's first peoples to make polished, edge-ground, stone tools, to cremate their dead and to engrave and paint representations of themselves and animals. They had and still have a sophisticated culture that integrates religion, history, law, art and codes of behavior into complex ceremonies.

In the 18th century, the British First Fleet arrived. The new settlers made a significant impact on the Aboriginal communities. Unfortunately, the Aboriginal people's egalitarian social structure hampered their attempts at resistance to the British, who refused to recognize the legal rights to Aboriginal land. As a result, the Aboriginal residents were driven away by force, or were murdered by the settlers. Many of the indigenous inhabitants died from European diseases that were unfamiliar to their immune system.

Sydney is Australia's oldest settlement. The fleet landed at Botany Bay in January 1788, on the recommendation of Captain Cook, who had visited the area 18 years earlier. It carried 730 male and female convicts from Britain's overcrowded jails plus an assortment of military personnel under the command of Captain Arthur Phillip. Eventually a settlement was erected at Sydney Cove to the north of the bay. That location is where the city of Sydney grew.

The settlement was on the brink of starvation for its first 15 years, but nevertheless, over a period of several years, the second and third fleets arrived. For the next 60 years it received the unwanted, persecuted and criminal elements of British society. During the last decade of the 18th century there was a massive influx of military settlers, known as the 'Rum Corps'. Rum became Sydney's main currency and the military, rather than the governors, ran the business. Explorers set out for the Blue Mountains and soon after, Sydney was linked with the western plains of New South Wales (NSW). Sydney's importance diminished dramatically, when large parts of its population left the town in search of gold, after that was discovered in Victoria and to the west of Sydney in the 1850s.

The country's states federated on 1 January 1901 and NSW became a state of Australia, with Sydney as its capital. Australia joined the Brits in WWI and its economy boomed until the end of the 1920s. When the Great Depression hit the city's economy tumbled and by 1931, around a third of Sydney's workforce was unemployed. Fortunately, in 1932, wool prices rose and Sydney's building industry took off. Once again, Sydney became the most special city in Australia. Also in 1932, the famous Harbor Bridge was opened. During the opening ceremonies, a guy named de Groot, rushed forward with a sword and slashed the opening ribbon before NSW premier Jack Lang could do that officially.

Sydney suffered little during WWII; some Japanese midget subs were captured in the harbor and that's about it. After the war though, European immigrants flooded into the city, which spread rapidly westwards. In 1957, immigrant architect Jørn Utzon won a competition to design the Sydney Opera House. In 1966 he resigned from the project in frustration at compromises to his plan. Another team took over and the Opera House was opened in 1973. Nowadays it is one of the world's most famous landmarks.

During the Vietnam War, Sydney became an important R&R stopover for American GI's. Coke, burgers and King's Cross arrived to the city during that period. In the 1970s, NSW had a Labor government, against the national trend. Longstanding premier Neville Wran oversaw much of Sydney's building boom. The Bicentennial celebrations in 1988 and the massive Darling Harbor redevelopment project boosted the city's morale and its economy has been doing reasonably well.

Vast amounts of money were poured into renovation projects, after Sydney won the bid to host the 2000 Olympic Games. Visitor number stayed well below expectations though and the changes to Sydney's infrastructure haven't necessarily improved the life of most impoverished locals who couldn't even afford a ticket to the games.

Nowadays Sydney is Australia's economic powerhouse and the nation's capital in everything but name. You won't easily find a more spectacular setting for a city than Sydney's stunning location on the shores of Port Jackson.

Since Sydney was the ancestral home of the Cadigal band (also known as the Eora people), whose territory extended from the south side of Port Jackson from South Head to Petersham, there are some 2000 Aboriginal rock engraving sites in the region. Many of Sydney's suburbs have Aboriginal names. Despite of its convict beginnings, Sydney has become a thriving multicultural society and still attracts the majority of Australia's immigrants. Its original Anglo-Irish heritage has been revitalized by the influx of numerous immigrants from Italy, Lebanon, Turjey, Greece and Vietnam.

The city center is on the southern shore of the harbor, about 7 km (4 miles) inland from the harbor heads. Sydney's Central Business District (CBD) is dominated by skyscrapers, but to the east is the shady Hyde Park and to the west you will find The Domain parkland, which provide a lovely escape from busy downtown. The main harbor is north of the city center. The Sydney Harbor Bridge and the harbor tunnel link the center with the satellite CBD of North Sydney and the suburbs of the North Shore.

Sydney has a population of more than 4 million people and it is still growing fast. The inner city areas of Woolloomooloo, East Sydney, Darlinghurst, Surry Hills, Paddington, Newtown, Glebe and Balmain are an interesting mix of bohemian, gentrified, gay and traditional working-class suburbs. There are three distinct socio-geographic areas outside the inner suburbs: the wealthy eastern suburbs stretching from Kings Cross to South Head; the middle class family-oriented North Shore; and the less wealthy and much disparaged western suburbs, stretching inland for over 50 km (30 miles) to the foothills of the Blue Mountains.

Everything in Sydney is focused on the harbor. There are numerous beaches, coves, bays and waterside parks that all provide a welcome release from live in the metropolis. Sydney's harbor is one of Australia's major ports. Ferries connect many places around the harbor with another and during the weekends it is carpeted by yachts.

The ocean beaches to the north and south of Sydney offer marvelous cliff scenery and great waves. They are Aussie beach culture at its best.

When to Go


The best time to visit Sydney is during spring or in autumn. The months of March, April, October and November are the best periods for a holiday in Sydney. The region has a temperate climate and during the summer, temperatures average about 25°C (77°F). On hot days, it can easily get up to 40°C (104°F) and the high humidity can make it oppressive. Luckily, between October and March, torrential downpours often break the heat. The period between December and February is the hottest time of the year.

The massive Sydney Festival occupies most of the calendar in January. It includes a number of events from open-air concerts in The Domain, to street theatre and fireworks. The Great Ferry Boat Race is also in January, while the more serious Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race starts at the end of December and finishes in January. Another important event is the Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras. It takes place in February/March. The Royal Easter Show lasts for 12 days.

On Christmas Day and on New Years Eve, many locals head for Bondi Beach to drink and party. Many others jump in the water at The Rocks or Kings Cross on New Years Eve.

Winter in Sydney is cool rather than cold. In June the Sydney Film Festival is held, while the 14 km City to Surf Run takes place in August. The Rugby League Grand Final is in September and the Manly International Jazz Festival is held in October.

Places of interest


Sydney Harbor


The harbor is Sydney's defining characteristic. It features several sandstone headlands, dramatic cliffs, rocky islands and stunning bays and beaches. Many people regard it as one of the most beautiful stretches of water in the world. The harbor is officially called Port Jackson, but that name is seldom used. It stretches 20 km inland before joining the mouth of the Parramatta River, but the most scenic part is on the ocean side of the bridge.

There are good walks in the Sydney Harbor National Park. The park protects the scattered pockets of bush land around the harbor. The best way, however, to experience the harbor is to go sailing. If you lack the skills for that, you can always catch the Manly ferry, or swim in the harbor at Nielsen Park. You can also walk the scenic route from Manly to Spit Bridge, or dine at Milsons Point, Balmoral or Circular Quay, while enjoying the view. At Watsons Bay you can have a drink while watching the waves. Many people also join the popular cruise to the heads on the bounty.

The Macquarie Lighthouse is also known as South Head Upper Light. It is the oldest lighthouse in Australia. It is located on Dunbar Head, some 2 km (1 mi) south of South Head close to the entrance to Sydney Harbour.

The Rocks


The Rocks is the oldest part of Sydney, but nothing reminds you of the squalid, overcrowded and plague-ridden place it used to be. Nowadays, The Rocks is a sanitized, historical tourist precinct, where you walk on cobbled streets and see many colonial buildings and stuffed koalas.

A walk around The Rocks can be a delightful experience. Some of the more interesting attractions include the weekend market and the Sydney Observatory, as well as various craft shops and art galleries.

Most visitors are attracted by the old buildings, alleyways and historic façades though. The contiguous suburb of Millers Point is a good place where you can get an idea what The Rocks must have looked like before tourists started affecting the suburb. Two of Sydney's oldest pubs, the Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel and The Hero of Waterloo, are also located in the area.

Circular Quay


The first European settlement in Australia was established around the Tank Stream that runs nowadays underground into the harbor of Sydney Cove. Circular Quay is built around that cove. Circular Quay has been Sydney's shipping center for many years, but nowadays it is both a commuting hub and a recreational space.

There are ferry quays and the Overseas Passenger Terminal that includes harbor walkways. There are also many restaurants, buskers and parks, as well as a railway station, where you will find train connections with downtown. The Museum of Contemporary Art and the Sydney Opera House are also in Circular Quay.

Sydney Opera House


Sydney's Opera House is one of the world's best known landmarks. It is the city's most recognizable icon and it is dramatically situated on the eastern headland of Circular Quay. Architect Jørn Utzon was inspired by palm fronds, when he designed the building's famous sail- and shell-like roofs.

Construction of the Opera House took place between 1959 and 1973, but construction delays and political difficulties caused Utzin to resign from the project in 1966. Many visitors are disappointed by the building's interior, which was designed by a consortium of Australians after Utzon quit. Nevertheless, it's a truly memorable place to see a performance or to just have a drink in one of the outdoor cafés and watch the harbor.

At the Opera House you can enjoy theatre, classical music, ballet, film and seasonal opera performances. Contemporary arts events are staged under the title of The Studio. On weekends, free music performances are usually offered on the prow of the Opera House and a craft market is held on the forecourt on Sundays.

Central Business District (CBD)


The Australian Museum was formerly called the Colonial Museum, or Sydney Museum. It is located at 1 William Street and it is the oldest natural history museum in Australia. The museum was founded in 1827 by Earl Bathurst, who was the Secretary of State for the Colonies.

The museum houses a collection that consists of more than 21 million cultural and scientific items.

Sydney's Town Hall is located at 483 George Street. Construction of the building took place from 1869 to 1889. It was built in the neo-Classical and French Second Empire styles. Town Hall is also known as Centennial Hall, Main Hall, Peace Hall, Great Hall and Old Burial Ground.

The Queen Victoria Building, often abbreviated as the QVB, sits at 429–481 George Street. The Romanesque Revival building was built between 1893 and 1898. It houses shops and offices.

Contemporary buildings in the CBD include Citigroup Centre, Aurora Place, Chifley Tower, the Reserve Bank building, Deutsche Bank Place, MLC Centre and Capita Centre. The tallest structure in Sydney is Sydney Tower, which was built in 1981. Its observation deck provides excellent views over Sydney.

Macquarie Street


On Macquarie Street you can see most of Sydney's oldest public buildings. Many of them were commissioned by Governor Macquarie and designed by the convict architect Francis Greenway. The most interesting buildings include Parliament House, with its two storeys and verandas, Sydney Hospital, the Mint Building, the marvelous Hyde Park Barracks, St James Church and the State Library.

The Barracks and the Mint have been converted into museums, while the library hosts art exhibitions. The hospital and Parliament House offer tours of their interiors. Macquarie Street rubs from Hyde Park to Circular Quay. It forms the eastern boundary of the Central Business District and it borders The Domain and the Royal Botanic Gardens.

The Domain


The Domain is a large, grassy area east of Macquarie Street. It was denominated for public recreation by Governor Phillip and nowadays city workers use it for lunchtime sports, as well as a place to escape the bustle of the city.

On Sunday afternoons, you will see many soapbox speakers there; trying to encourage their public. The Domain is also used for free events during the Sydney Festival in January. The popular Carols by Candlelight at Christmas are also held there.

The Art Gallery of New South Wales


In the northeastern part of The Domain is the Art Gallery of New South Wales, which has excellent permanent exhibitions of Australian, European, Japanese and tribal art. Interesting temporary exhibits are organized there frequently too.

Royal Botanic Gardens


The Royal Botanic Gardens include Farm Cove, the first bay east of Circular Quay, as well as the location of the colony's first vegetable patch. You can see a marvelous collection of South Pacific plant life at the Botanical Gardens. In the Arc and Pyramid glasshouses are tropical displays and a beautiful, old-fashioned formal rose garden. The gardens are spectacularly situated and often used for family picnics and wedding photographs.

Darling Harbor


Darling Harbor is a huge waterfront tourist and leisure park. There are walkways, gardens, museums, an aquarium, convention centre, casino, eateries and shops. Originally the area was a thriving dockland, but it declined and was reinvented as Darling Harbor in the 1980s. The most interesting sights include the Sydney Aquarium, the Australian National Maritime Museum, the water sculpture, the Chinese Garden, the large IMAX Theatre and the Powerhouse Museum, which is Sydney's most spectacular museum.

Bondi Beach


Bondi Beach is the most popular of Sydney's beaches. It is a marvelous stretch of sand, where majestic rollers crash into the shallows almost continuously. The suburb of Bondi Beach offers countless ice-cream parlors, designer cafes, greasy fish and chip joints, kosher shops and of course surf fashion stores. A nice promenade runs along the beach and in the vicinity you can also see Aboriginal rock engravings.

Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park


Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park consists of 150 km² (60 sq miles) of sandstone bush land at the mouth of the Hawkesbury River. The park boasts more than 100 km (62 miles) of shoreline, as well as lots of forest and wildlife. Walking tracks lead through the park and along the way you can see some fine examples of Aboriginal rock art. Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park is 24 km (15 miles) north of Sydney and the more elevated parts of the park offer superb views across Pittwater towards the city.

Royal National Park


The Royal National Park is 30 km (19 miles) south of Sydney. It is the oldest gazetted national park in the world. The Hacking River cuts the park into two parts and there are riverside picnic and boat hiring facilities at Audley. A coastal track runs along the entire length of the park. It stretches for 26 km (16 miles) and can be accessed from Bundeena. If you walk the track, you will pass the wonderful lagoon beach at Wattamolla and the popular surfing spot at Garie Beach. The southern part of the park offers the best views, overlooking Bulli from the edge of the Illawarra escarpment. The endless sea of low scrub that covered the sandstone plateau in the north of the park, was devastated by the 1994 and 2002 bush fires. The forested river valleys and the beaches remain beautiful.

Other activities


Sydney's harbor is excellent for sailing, canoeing and windsurfing. Equipment can be hired at several locations throughout the city, but the best places are Spit Bridge and Balmoral. The best beaches for surfing are Bondi and Tamarama, south of Sydney on the harbor's south shore and Narrabeen, North Avalon and Palm Beach on the north shore. Sydney's diving scene is concentrated on Manly. The best places for swimming are at Camp Cove, Nielsen Park, Balmoral and Chinaman's Beach. They have excellent beaches and not too many waves. You will have to go to Bondi, Tamarama, or Bronte on the south shore, or any of the beaches that line the 30 km (19 miles) stretch of coast between Manly and Palm Beach on the north shore, if you want to try bodysurfing.

In the Royal National Park, the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park and the Sydney Harbor National Park you can practice bush walking. An interesting track is the 8 km (5 miles) long Manly Scenic Walkway. It follows the harbor from the north shore beachside suburb to Spit Bridge on Middle Harbor. A shorter walk, but not less spectacular, is along the cliffs from Bronte to Bondi Beach. In Centennial Park, the large park between Paddington and Bondi, you can go horse riding. The park is also popular with people who like jogging and inline skating. The Bondi and Manly promenades are other popular spots for these activities.

Transportation


Most people who visit Sydney, first arrive at Kingsford Smith airport, which is also known as Mascot. The airport has air connections with about every place on earth, but flights are usually expensive, as Australia is a long way from most other places on the planet and flights are often heavily booked. Once you're inside Australia, discount flight passes are available for the domestic airlines. Especially if you don't have too much time, you should consider flying, because Australia is a very large country. The airport is about 9 km (6 miles) south of the city center.

The rail link between the airport and the city was build for the 2000 Olympics. There is also a special bus, the Airport Express that connects the airport with several places in the city, as well as Kings Cross and Bondi. Several of the ordinary buses also have a stop at the airport, but they run less frequent. The airport runs a quite expensive limousine bus service, which will take you right to your hotel or hostel and vice versa. Taxis are even more expensive, but widely available.

The Sydney Harbor Bridge and the harbor tunnel link Sydney's center with the satellite Central Business District of North Sydney and the suburbs of the north shore. The city's main train station is Central Station. It is in the southern part of the city center and the main bus terminal is just outside it.

Most big cities in Australia have rail connections with Sydney, especially those in NSW. Sydney's train network is very good and includes an underground city center loop. The underground is the fastest way to get around in Sydney, but the train network has some gaps and places along the coast on the south shore, as well as the entire north shore east of the Harbor Bridge, are not served by any trains. There is also a futuristic, elevated Monorail that shuttles between the city and Darling Harbor.

All major bus companies run routes from Sydney to most other large towns in Australia. Bus passes and discounts for students are available on most lines. Specialized bus tours are also available in town. The bus network inside the city is extensive, but the buses are quite slow.

Three major roads connect Sydney with the rest of Australia. You can go north to Newcastle and beyond, west across the Blue Mountains, or south to Melbourne and Canberra and further down the south coast to Wollongong.

You can also take a taxi to get around town, or hire a car, or a bicycle, but the most pleasant way to explore Sydney is by ferry. A trip on the Manly ferry is the best way to experience the harbor if you can't get someone to take you sailing.

Accommodation and food


Most budget accommodation is situated in Kings Cross. Cheap hotels are also available in Glebe, Bondi Beach and Manly, while the more pricy places are located in the city and the Rocks.

You will find countless fine restaurants in Darlinghurst, Kings Cross, Paddington, Glebe and in lesser quantities around Circular Quay. If you want to visit an interesting café, try Oxford and Victoria Streets in Darlinghurst, Stanley Street in East Sydney, King Street in Newtown or Norton Street in Leichhardt.

Scattered around the edges of the Central Business District are Sydney's best theatres. The Opera House is on the edge of Circular Quay and most of the mainstream cinema complexes are on the ugly neon strip of George Street. If you want to get a taste of Sydney's nightlife, you should go to Oxford Street, or Kings Cross. Spending a night at The Rocks can be fun, but is more expensive, as it is aimed at tourists. Sydney's gay community usually hangs out on Oxford Street.

Sydney is in the southeast of Australia, some 250 km northeast of Canberra.


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Images

Harbor Bridge
Harbor Bridge ©Roy Digital Design

View over the city
View over the city ©Roy Digital Design

Sydney
Sydney ©Roy Digital Design

Sydney
Sydney ©Roy Digital Design

Sydney
Sydney ©Roy Digital Design

Sydney
Sydney ©Roy Digital Design

Sydney
Sydney ©Roy Digital Design

View over the city
View over the city ©Roy Digital Design

Opera House and Harbor Bridge ©Photoholgic
Opera House and Harbor Bridge ©Photoholgic

Sydney ©Dan Freeman
Sydney ©Dan Freeman

Harbor Bridge ©Christopher Burns
Harbor Bridge ©Christopher Burns

Harbor Bridge ©Road Trip with Raj
Harbor Bridge ©Road Trip with Raj

Opera House ©Tyler Duston
Opera House ©Tyler Duston

Sydney ©Daniel Chen
Sydney ©Daniel Chen

Sydney by night ©Wim van 't Einde
Sydney by night ©Wim van 't Einde

View over the city ©Jamie Davies
View over the city ©Jamie Davies


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