Seoul
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Neolithic sites suggest that the area of present day Seoul was already inhabited around 4000 BC, but the oldest official records are Chinese and date from the 1st century BC. At that time a kingdom called Choson (Morning Freshness) was set up in the area of current P'yongyang, by a renegade general who fled from China. The Chinese quickly overran the kingdom and as a result the Chinese gained control over the entire Korean peninsula. A period, known as the Three Kingdoms Period began. During that period, which lasted until 668 AD, the peninsula was ruled from three centers.
The area around present day Seoul became of importance when the Paekche kingdom established its capital city at Wiryesong, now known as Songnam, on the outskirts of Seoul. Later the Shilla dominated the area and Seoul lost its regional importance. In 918 a soldier from the northern Koguryo kingdom founded the Koryo kingdom in the area, after he gained control over it. Korea was named after this kingdom. The Koryo kingdom maintained control for several centuries and even managed to survive invasions by the Mongols in 1231. The decline of the Mongols also ushered that of the Koryo.
Korean general Yi Song-gye, who was sent to campaign against the Ming Chinese, joined the enemy and overthrew the Korean king in 1392. In 1394 Yi Song-gye moved the capital to Hanyang-gun, which later became Seoul. Seoul means 'capital' in the native Korean language. Ten years later Seoul's population had reached 100,000. Confucianism was stressed over Buddhism and monks were not allowed to enter the capital for some 500 years.
Seoul was partially destructed during a Japanese invasion in 1592. A combined Korean-Chinese force defeated the Japanese, but in their retreat the Japanese took many of Korea's top artisans. That move caused a Korean hatred for everything Japanese, which still continues today. In 1636 Seoul was destroyed once again, this time by invading Manchus. The Korean king signed over control to the Manchus and when they invaded China in the 1360's he assisted them in their campaign.
By the mid-17th century the Hermit kingdom has established itself in Korea and the country lived a period of relative peace, only disrupted by the arrival of Christianity and a new Japanese invasion in 1894. Local sentiment was still fervently anti-Japanese after Japan's previous invasion and a Korean Empire was founded in 1897. In 1904 however, the Japanese took Korea as part of its war against Russia and six years later they annexed the peninsula completely. The Japanese tried to completely eradicate Korean culture during the occupation, which lasted until the Japanese surrender at the end of WWII.
In 1945 the Koreans expected independence, but instead they were subject to dual 'trusteeship'. The U.S. controlled the part of the Korean peninsula, below the 38th parallel, while the Russians controlled the rest. With the start of the cold war, tensions on the Korean peninsula rose and in June 1950, some 100,000 North Korean troops invaded the south. It only took them three days to take Seoul, but a United Nations force headed by U.S. general MacArthur quickly cut off the northern force's supply lines and recaptured Seoul. After that, China's Mao Zedong sent one million 'volunteers' to help the North Koreans. Two years later a truce was signed, but by that time Korea was in ruins and Seoul once again devastated.
In 1960 elections were held, but they were grossly rigged and thousands of students took the streets to protest against President Syngman Rhee's government. Many protesters were killed in battles with the police, but at the end the government resigned and Rhee went into exile in Hawaii. A year later the opposition's government was toppled in a military coup, led by General Park Chung-hee. Park resigned from the army and stood for election, winning the presidency. He then brought Japanese business notion to Korea, as he was educated in Japan. Cash was borrowed and foreign technology imported. As a result South Korea became a wealthy exporting nation.
South Korea's economy boomed during the 1960's and 1970's, but politically the country was a mess. Electoral fraud, martial law, assassination attempts and press censorship kept South Korea in the news during that period. In 1980 General Chun Doo-hwan took power and vowed to lead the country until 1988, the year of the Seoul Olympics. In 1987, however he was forced out of power, as the people took the streets. Chun resigned in favor of Roh Tae-woo. Long-time opposition figures Kim Dae-jung and Kim Young-sam formed an opposition party, but they could not decide, who would lead and in the end they both ran in the elections. As a result the opposition vote was split, allowing Roh to win.
In 1992 the first clean elections were held and the country finally became politically stable. In 1995, however, evidence surfaced that both Roh and Chun had pocketed millions of dollars worth of 'campaign contributions'. Their roles in the bloody Kwangju Massacre, part of the 1980 coup, led to an investigation that resulted in a trial, where Roh was sentenced to 22 years in prison and Chun to death. In 1997 President Kim Yung-sam granted both a presidential pardon.
In that same year, a law was passed allowing companies to lay off workers, in an effort to get out of the economic crisis that swept through Asia during that time. Until then lifetime employment was expected and workers could not be sacked. Labor unions took to the streets in protest of President Yung-sam's policies and the law was tabled for two years. The Asian economic crisis brought Kim Dae-jung to power in the elections of 1998. The economic crisis worsened and many Korean companies had to close permanently.
Under Kim's leadership the crisis was tackled and relations with North Korea thawed considerably, resulting in the reunification of families from North and South Korea on 15 August 2000, the 55th anniversary of Korea's independence from Japan. The relationship with the reclusive North Korean regime continue to be a complicated issue though and it will take a lot of political will and effort to normalize them.
Seoul has been completely rebuilt since the 1950's and nowadays, it's a modern city with 12-lane freeways and glass and steel high-rises. Numerous centuries-old temples, palaces, pagodas and pleasure gardens have survived all the destruction and can be found scattered all over the city as a remainder of ancient times. Seoul has plenty of cultural experiences to offer and, combined with cheap accommodation and an excellent public transport system, most visitors to South Korea, never get past the city limits. The Han-gang River bisects Seoul. Chung-gu is the city's central district. At its southern edge sits Mount Namsan and south of that is the It'aewon-dong district. Chongno-gu lies to the north of the city center. The Kangnam area on the south bank of the Han-gang is Seoul's most exclusive neighbourhood.
During the 1988 Olympics, Seoul attracted international attention and showed the world that South Korea suffered political and labor related problems. During the last decade of the 20th century huge progress was made to solve these problems and nowadays the country lives a period of peace and stability.
Seoul has a baffling system of street addresses that is not even understood by the locals. Instead of consecutive numbers along a road, addresses are given by random numbers within an arbitrary block of land. Combine this with the lack of street signs and to total absence of street names, it can cause you wandering around for your destination for hours. Most business cards in Seoul have therefore maps printed on the back.
When to Go
Seoul can be visited all year round, but autumn (September-November) is the most popular time. In autumn the weather is fine and the forests around the city boast amazing colors. Korean Thanksgiving (Ch'usok) is also known as the Harvest Moon Festival. It is the most important of South Korea's lunar holidays and falls on the 15th day of the eighth month, which is in September or October. During that day, Seoul becomes almost deserted as most city dwellers head back to their family homes. There they prepare offerings for the ancestral tombs and prepare for an evening of gazing at the moon.
Winter in Seoul is cold, but magnificent, with the ice and snow showing off the city in a flattering way. The Lunar New Year (Solnal) is celebrated on the first day of the first moon and during that day the entire city, as well as the rest of South Korea grinds to a halt. Special dance and music performances are held in the Korean Folk Village and the Seoul Nori Madang on Lunar New Year.
Spring is marked by a short cherry blossom season in February. On the eighth day of the fourth moon, in April or May, the Buddha's Birthday, or Feast of the Lanterns is held. At about 18:30 an evening lantern parade sets off from Youido Plazato Chogyesa Temple. Full costume parades are held at the Chyongmyo T'aeje (Royal Shrine Rites) in the Chongymo Shrine on the first Sunday in May.
Summer is the least attractive time to visit Seoul, with temperatures soaring and wet weather.
Overall, Seoul can be visited any time of year, but during holiday periods, accommodation becomes expensive and hard to find and public transport gets very crowded. Lunar New Year should especially be avoided. Apart from the mentioned events, several other festivals are held in Seoul. The Sokchonje is held twice a year in the Confucius Shrine at Sungkyunkwan University in northern Seoul. During that festival a traditional court orchestra performs and full costume rituals are enacted. During Armed forces Day big military parades, aerial acrobatics and honor guard ceremonies are held on Youido Island.
Places of interest
Old Seoul
Seoul's central and northern neighborhoods breath an air of old-times atmosphere, which is in stark contrast with the surrounding high rise. The area was once known as Pukch'on (North Village) and home to the city's nobility. Most of Seoul's royal palaces are located there and you will also find numerous tiny alleyways, lined with traditional tile-roofed homes, some of which boast beautiful stained-wood doors with ornate brass door knocks. A nice walk starts from Kyongbokkung Station and takes you through the quaint residential area and the Kyongbokkung Palace in about an hour.
Kyongbokkung Palace is the best known of Seoul's palaces. It was built at the beginning of the Yi Dynasty, at the end of the 14th century. Most of the original 500 buildings in the palace grounds were destroyed when the Japanese invaded, but in the late 19th century they were reconstructed, only to be destroyed once again in the Korean War. The palace has now been restored again and includes several buildings, one of which is the most exquisite pagoda in the country. There is also a huge two-storey throne room. In the National Folk Museum, on the palace grounds you can see how ordinary Koreans have lived through the ages.
Not far from Kyongbokkung Palace, along Samch'ongdonggil, are countless teashops and galleries, including Yoon, Hyundai, Kumho, Kukje and Growrich. Most of them have displays of local contemporary artists.
Yi Dynasty Palaces
The Ch'anggyonggung Palace was originally built as a Koryo summer palace in 1104, making it Seoul's oldest palace. The Yis (ruler) moved in even before the palace was completed and during the Japanese occupation a botanical garden and zoo were constructed. The Japanese demoted the palace to a park. After they left the wild animals were relocated to Seoul Grand Park and the palace was returned to its former status. In the palace you can see plenty of Koryo Dynasty items, including astronomical instruments and also the botanical garden still remains. After crossing a footbridge from the palace, you will come to the Chongmyo Shrine, where the ancestral tablets of all 27 Yi Dynasty kings are enshrined. The Ch'anggyonggung Palace predates the beginning of the Yi Dynasty about 300 years.
During the Yi Dynasty, beginning around the late 14th century, a string of palaces and monuments was constructed to show off the emperors' power and greatness. Nowadays there are not many left, but it will still keep you occupied for several days if you want to visit them all. The Yi palaces are all square, orientated along a north-south axis and surrounded by high walls. The layouts were based on Chinese geomancy.
Ch'angdokkung Palace is the residence of the royals and parts of the palace can be visited on a guided tour. The tour takes you along the 32 hectares (79 acres) large Piwon (Secret Garden), which includes beautiful ponds, pavilions, ancient gnarled trees and the Pullomun Gate. According to legend, passing under this gate is supposed to make you eternally young.
One of the smallest palaces in Seoul is the Toksugung Palace. It is of historical importance though, as it has twice served as the royal residence. When the Japanese sacked Seoul in 1592 the royals moved there, as their own palace was in use as a park and King Kojong lived there from 1897 to 1907, again as a result of Japanese occupation. You can enter Toksugung Palace through the Taehanmun Gate opposite the Seoul Plaza Hotel.
T'apkol Park
T'apkol Park is southwest of Ch'anggyonggung palace. The Declaration of Independence was first read in T'apkol Park in 1919 and murals around it are dedicated to the independence movement. The park got its name from the marble pagoda (t'apkol) in its grounds. It is a nice place to sit around and chat with the locals.
Namsan Park
South of Seoul's city center is Namsan Park. It includes Mount Namsan, which once marked the southern extent of old royal Seoul. Nowadays you can still see the remains of the old city walls in the park. Around Mount Namsan's peak used to stand numerous fortifications, but they have long been replaced by Seoul Tower, a 483 m (1584 feet) high structure and one of the tallest in the world. The tower houses a revolving restaurant and an observation deck, as well as an Aquarium, Ocean Life Museum, Funny World, Game Rooms and Natural Stone Exhibits. In the western part of Namsan Park you will find the interesting Namsan Botanical Gardens. Nearby is a library and if you walk further downhill you will arrive at a pleasant residential area and back in downtown Seoul.
Youido Island
Youido is Seoul's administrative and business center, where you will find numerous office buildings and surprisingly empty streets, at least on weekdays. On Sundays the huge Youi-do Plaza gets very crowded with people strolling around. Stalls spring up and many people show off their roller skating skills. The square was originally a landing strip.
At Youido's northwestern end stands the National Assembly building, an ugly construction, which is only worth a visit if you are interested in modern Korean politics. Also on Youido is the Full Gospel Church, where huge congregations are held every Sunday. Korea's tallest building is the DLI 63 building, which has 60 floors above ground and three below. It is home to an aquarium and an Imax theatre, while its top floor is in use as an observation deck, but better views are obtained from the Seoul Tower.
It'aewon-dong
It'aewon-dong is the center of Seoul. It is an excellent place for shopping, where you can find good bargains after some haggling about the price. The whole area is packed with small shops, bars and nightspots. One of the specialties in It'aewon-dong are leather jackets, which are available at good prices. Expensive shoes are also available at bargain prices. Be careful when walking around It'aewon-dong at night.
Namdaemun Gate
The Namdaemun Gate was once Seoul's chief city gate. It was built in the 14th century and now stands as a beacon of calm in the chaotic Seoul traffic, not far from the main railway station.
War Memorial
Seoul's War Memorial is a museum that traces Korea's (war) history, from the Three Kingdom period to the Korean War. The War Memorial is one of Seoul's best museums. It houses more than 13,000 items and includes the two large aircraft that parked outside. The exhibits about Korea's 'great victories', all boast English translations, but the defeats at the hands of the Japanese are only available in hangul script. The War Memorial is in the Yongsan-gu military base.
Lotte World
Lotte World is a mall that includes an ice skating rink, hotel, swimming pool and the Lotte World Adventure entertainment park, a sort of Disney-world clone.
Around Seoul
Two popular destinations, not far from Seoul include trips to P'anmunjom in the 'demilitarized zone', or DMZ and Puk'ansan National Park, which is excellent for hiking. Organized tours to both places are available in Seoul.
Other Activities
The best way to see Seoul is by walking around. If you want to do more than just walk, you can visit one of Seoul's golf courses. Two of them are situated within the city limits, while an additional 37 are scattered all over the surrounding province. Also out of town, traditional Korean-style archery, as well as its Western counterpart, can be practiced. During the winter months, the mountainous terrain around Seoul is excellent for skiing, while the indoor ice-skating rink at Lotte World, is open throughout the year. On weekends it gets very crowded though. On the Han River, windsurfing and water skiing can be practiced during the summer.
Transportation
Most large international airlines fly to Seoul's Kimp'o Airport, while the domestic Asiana Airlines and Korean Air (KAL) serve many destinations within South Korea, as well as numerous international routes. During Lunar New Year, Ch'usok and Christmas, flights are usually fully booked. Kimp'o Airport is 18 km west of Seoul's city center and there are countless buses and taxis that shuttle between the two.
Since South Korea's only land border is closed, there are no international buses or trains to or from Seoul, but there are plenty of long-distance buses to get you across the country. The Kangnam express bus terminal, on the south side of the Han River, is the main bus station, while the Tong-Seoul (east Seoul) bus terminal serves destinations on South Korea's east coast. First-class coaches in South Korea are luxurious. They have plenty of legroom and cushy seats.
The bus network to get around within Seoul is extensive. Buses run from 5:30 AM to around midnight. There are also countless privately owned minibuses, but they are illegal. The Korean government tolerates them though, as they provide services to isolated areas, where the public network would not be affordable.
The subway system in Seoul consists of eight lines. The city's metropolitan area is covered by a basic charge, while connections with the KNR network that serves other places in South Korea are available at additional charges.
Cars can be rented in Seoul, but driving habits are quite frightening and during the rush hours traffic doesn't move at all. If you don't want to use buses or subways, it is best to get a taxi. The shortage of taxis in Seoul has been solved by a complicated system of 'share taxis'. As long as there are empty seats in the taxi, additional passengers will be picked up, so copy down the price on the meter when you get in and subtract it from the price it shows when you get out, or you'll probably get ripped off.
Accommodation and Food
The best place to find cheap accommodation in Seoul, is the city center. Most of the mid-range hotels are located in Chung-gu, while It'aewon-dong is the place where most upscale hotels are situated. Cheap food is available in the basements of large department stores in central Seoul, but they only serve local food, such as kimch'i. There are also numerous Western-style restaurants in the capital, but they are more expensive. There are many good pubs around the Shinch'on subway station, while Seoul's best nightlife is concentrated at It'aewon-dong and Kangnam.
Seoul lies in the northwest of South Korea and the border with the North is only 40 km (25 miles) from the city center.
